The Twelve Days of Muskoka - Christmas & Holiday Local Gift Guide :: Day 3

We really dig living in Muskoka. The area is home to many beautiful iconic features and creatures that have come to help symbolize Ontario and Canada as we know it. But one of features that we like the most is how inspiring it is to live amongst the many artisans and crafters - that have made this land of rock and water their home - as well the smaller businesses that have come to be part of the personality and character of the Muskoka we have come to know and love. Thus Twelve Days of Muskoka, inspired by Suburban Tourist's Twelve Days of Holiday Gift Giving, is meant to celebrate these people and their businesses as well as introduce you to some new gift giving ideas and remind you of some old favourites.

The Third Day of Muskoka Christmas & Holiday Gift Giving Guide

Johnny's Boat Shop

Maintenance, Repair & Storage

John Gall

John is an example of a modern day artisan of services. For almost 2 decades, John has been working intimately with fiberglass, Kevlar, carbon fiber, Royalex and aluminum, even specializing in thin laminate construction and repair. Located in part of Ontario's cottage country, Johnny's Canoe & Kayak Repair Centre is the one stop boat repair place for when you are at the lake, the cottage or touring beautiful Muskoka. He also offers maintenance packages and storage.

What better gift to give then to have someone take care of your canoe for you!

Seriously, that would be a really great and unique gift idea. Have Johnny's Boat Shop sand and oil those gunnels, adjust the screws, or clean and store your boat so your friend has a worry free winter and  great start in the Spring.

And after knowing John for many years now, we can vouch for his quality of work and experience.  His friendly personal service and special expertise always includes helpful advice as can be seen on the Algonquin Outfitters' blog where John guest bloggs about putting your canoe away for the season. Read John's advice here: Putting Your Canoe Away For The Winter contact him today: Contact John @ Johnny's Boat Shop.

How To Varnish A Wood Canoe Paddle At Home

As you can imagine, one of the subjects we get the most inquiries for is anything and everything about canoe paddle maintenance. Questions ranging from; "How do I varnish my paddle?"; to "How often should I varnish my paddle"; to "Do I have to sand my paddle before I start?"; prompted us to produce a short and simple video to help those of you who wish to maintain and varnish their canoe paddles at home. We plan to do a "How To Oil A Wood Canoe Paddle" soon as well. Stay tuned!

For more information about how to maintain your wood canoe paddle, visit our website(s): here and here.

How an old paddle might look after refinishing*:
This old paddle has many scars and scratches. Spot sanded with
a coarse paper (150 grit in problem areas) and then a 220 grit all
over (to prepare the old varnish for finishing), then varnished with
3 coats of Spar Varnish (wet sanded with a 320 grit between coats).
We really dig the natural patina of this refinished paddle! Don't you?

Questions? Don't worry, you aren't badgering us!

Just send them to info@badgerpaddle.com and happy varnishing! :o)

A special Badger® thanks to Preston, Marcus, and Ray for their help.

*You can make your paddle look even more like new if you sand away all of the old varnish finish and start from bare wood. However, be careful if you decide to go this route in that you do not sand away the shape of your paddle!

Algonquin Paddlesports Assembly - What you missed!

Algonquin PaddleSports Assembly
SEPTEMBER 23 - 25, 2011

Did you miss the Algonquin Paddlesports Assembly this year?!! That's too bad. No, seriously, that's really too bad!


Because that means you missed out on all of the great seminars and demonstrations with some of the industry's leading experts like... boat designers David Yost or Bill Swift. And paddling icons such as Mark Scriver and Charlie Wilson, including Swift's own Brian Duplante and Skip Taylor... along with Mike Ramsay (of Badger® Paddles, of course!), as well as the knowledgeable John Gall (Johnny's Boat Shop: Canoe & Kayak Repair Centre) and even Brian Smith (of Hobie Kayaks) too. Not to mention some really great deals on new & used boats plus other great outdoor gear.


From learning to SUP to boat repair and from canoeing freestyle to paddle maintenance, this assembly had it all. And for those of you who were unfortunate enough to miss this great opportunity, we have uploaded a copy of our Wood Paddle Maintenance & Storage Handout that will available to download for a limited time! Click here to download our Canoe Paddle/Gunwale Maintenance & Storage Handout now.

Click on this text link to download the handout now.
automatic download - 257 KB PDF file

So what did you really miss at the ALGONQUIN PADDLESPORTS ASSEMBLY?

World renowned paddlers Mark Scriver (SUP) and
Charlie Wilson (Freestyle - yellow canoe) take to the water for their clinics.

Here is the schedule of events from the weekend....

SATURDAY CLINICS AND DEMOS

• 9:00 am Intro to Rowing Demonstration Bill Swift – Waterfront A
• 10:00 am Design & Construction Presentation David Yost /Bill Swift – Swift Boat Yard
• 11:00 am Boat Maintenance, Storage & Repair John Gall – Clinic Area A
• 11:00 am Intro to Kayak Demonstration Brian Duplante – Waterfront A
• Noon Intro to Stand up Paddle Boards Demonstration Mark Scriver – Waterfront A
• 1:00 pm Tandem Canoe Boat Control Demonstration Skip Taylor /Charlie Wilson 
• 2:00 pm Canoe Paddle Making, Selection & Maintenance Mike Ramsay, Badger Paddles – Clinic Area A
• 2:00 pm Hobie Pedal Drive Kayak Demonstration Brian Smith, Hobie Kayaks 
• 3:00 pm Kayak Paddle Selection Marc Scriver – Clinic Area A
• 3:00 pm Solo Canoe Choices Demonstration Skip Taylor - Waterfront A
• 4:00 pm Freestyle Canoeing Demonstration Skip Taylor - Canadian Solo & Charlie Wilson - Freestyle Solo & Freestyle Tandem

SUNDAY CLINICS AND DEMOS

• 9:00 - 10:30 am Learn to Row Bill Swift – Cost $30.00 On Water Clinic
• 10:00 - 11:30 am Learn to Kayak Skip Taylor - Free On Water Clinic
• 11:00 am - 12:30 pm Freestyle Canoeing Clinic Charlie Wilson - Cost $30.00 On Water Clinic
• ~ ALL DAY ~ Learn to Pedal Drive a Kayak Brian Smith - FREE On Water Clinic
• ~ ALL DAY ~ Learn to Stand Up Paddle Board Mark Scriver - FREE On Water Clinic

Sorry we can't say more but what happens at the Algonquin PaddleSports Assembly, stays at the Algonquin PaddleSports Assembly. So don't forget to keep your eye out for next year's Assembly... 'cause you know you won't want to miss it again!

A special thanks to our hosts, Algonquin Outfitters and Swift Canoe & Kayak, for reviving this event... and for having BADGER® Paddles there. Such a beautiful location and great people to assemble and celebrate the power of self propulsion with. Mike says he had such a great time, already he can't wait until next year!

Badger Paddles' Tip of the Week - Paddlers & Pantyhose

Badger Paddles' Tip of the Week includes information on paddling, camping, portaging, boat transport, and maintenance tips, as well as any other information that we may find to be useful around our sett.


Pantyhose is a Paddler's Friend.
We all know we are supposed to re-use and recycle items to help lesson our impact on the environment, right?!! But what does pantyhose have to do with paddlers? While there's actually a lot you can do with an old pair of nylon tights, for paddlers and campers, there are definitely at least two...

1) At the campground: Soap Stockings
Your bar of soap* (or you can take all the old soap slivers and left overs - you know, like when the soap gets too small to hold in the shower) and an old pair of pantyhose can make for a great soap dispenser in the bush. Cut off the leg of an old pair of clean nylon tights around knee height (or just use a pair of knee-highs). Add your soap (or soap pieces) into the sock you just created. Tie off the end near the soap. Hang the soap stocking near your wash/kitchen station while camping for hand-washing, etc., Now the soap won't slip out of your soapy hands or get dirty when you drop it. It also helps to keep the soap drier (not mushy) after use so it is easier to pack away at night (if little critters or bears are a consideration).


2) In the shop: Nylon Varnish Applicator
One reason that people tend to lean towards a varnished paddle is the lack of maintenance over an oiled paddle. But that doesn't mean that varnished paddles don't need a coat of protection every once in a while (depending on use). If you have a hard time with dripping varnish or only need to apply a light coat of protection, old nylons can be of great use. Just cut off the toe and upper portions of stockings, keeping the soft nylon and leaving the rest. Now simply apply the varnish to your paddle (after a light sanding to scuff up the surface a bit) using the nylons like a pad. Rub the varnish gently, making sure it is evenly dispersed, only using enough to cover the area with a light coat. Then leave to dry. You don't have to worry about cleaning your brush with Varsol or other harsh chemicals/spirits as discarding the old panty hose is your only clean up. The whole process takes only minutes but will lengthen the life of your paddle and it's finish. Note: you will want to use a pair of paint gloves to protect your paws!


One last tip: natural pantyhose works the best in most cases where strongly dyed tights or hose can possibly lose some of it colour while being re-used. (eg. You may notice the colour of your pantyhose showing up slightly in your varnish).

Do you have any tips to share? Send us your tips and paddling advice - and if your tip is featured here - we will send you a free Badger Paddles sticker!!! All you have to do is email us your suggestions.


*Biodegradable or earth friendly, please.

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Badger Paddles' Tip of the Week - Getting The Most From Your Oil

Badger Paddles' Tip of the Week includes information on paddling, camping, portaging, boat transport, and maintenance tips, as well as any other information that we may find to be useful around our sett.

To ensure that you are getting the best penetration when oiling your wooden paddles, gunwales, thwarts or seat parts - include the following tips into your oiling process.


Starting with a clean rag, poor the oil onto your folded cloth - not the wood. After applying a fairly liberal amount of oil* evenly to the entire surface, "WET SAND" it (using the oil as a lubricator) before you leave the oil to penetrate the wood (allowing the oil to permeate for up to 30 minutes). Using a good "waterproof" sandpaper (320 grit or finer) when oiling the wood, not only helps to open the grain (during the sanding process) but it also helps to take care of any slight raised grain issues as well as minor scratches. Sanding, a step we highly recommend, is what helps to give the wood a silky, smooth to the touch, finish. Please note that some people suggest to use a fine steel wool but we find it leaves bits of the steel fibres behind where as the sandpaper does not.

Applying a coat of oil with a clean cloth. 

Another tip, from Poppa Badger, is to use your hand to rub the surface (quickly) to create some heat. Do so in small sections until you have covered the entire area. When the oil is exposed to this frictional heat, it becomes like a polymerization effect, as a slight thickening occurs - along with the help of oxidization - resulting in a harder finish while helping to speed up the drying/curing process. If you do use your hand to rub the paddle down, be sure to take off any rings or other jewelry that may scratch the surface and always sand or rub in the direction of the grain.

Wet sand using the oil (NOT WATER).

Don't forget to remove the excess oil (after several minutes of penetration and wet sanding) by wiping away the excess with a clean, dry cloth.  This will prevent the oil from gumming** up and allow for a beautiful smooth finish. By removing the extra oil from the surface, the drying time is also faster. Remember, it is better to repeat this process a few times, in thinner layers, then to try to apply the oil too heavily.

To see all of our Oil and Varnish Maintenance Tips, visit:

How to Maintain Oiled Gunwales/Gunnels and Wooden Paddles

Canoe Paddle Maintenance Tips - Oil or Varnish

Badger Canoe Paddle Maintenance

*Oil can refer to a few different substances: Tung; Linseed; Badger Wood Oil (Hemp); a 50:50 mixture of oil and spirits (which also helps the oil to permeate the wood and speed up drying time); or a store bought concoction.


**If a too heavy coat of oil has been left for too long - or you get a gummy feel to the finish -  get out your fine (waterproof) sand paper again and "wet" sand (with a bit more oil) then immediately wipe the surface of any residual oil and leave to dry. Note: if the oil has been applied too heavily, or penetrates too deeply, you may have to check back within in few hours as the excess oil may seep out during this time. If this does occur, just wipe away the extra with a clean rag and leave to dry (checking back again as needed).

Do you have any tips to share? Send us your tips and paddling advice - and if your tip is featured here - we will send you a free Badger Paddles sticker!!! All you have to do is email us your suggestions.

Caring for That Which Cares for Your Gear - Brushes & Spirits

We all know how important it is to care for our gear.  Wood paddles need to be maintained by way of either oil or varnish.  Wooden gunnels/gunwales, too.  With the rising cost of materials and the environmental impact of our throw-away society, it's always a good idea to look at ways to maintain our gear & use materials that cause the least environmental (& economical) impact.  Badger has put together some tips on how to care for your brushes when varnishing and how to use these materials in a more conscientious way.  If not already using a water based varnish, which is the more environmentally friendly option (or you prefer the traditional mineral spirit based varnishes), then the following tips and information is for you!


Traditional Varnishing Tips Poppa Badger Taught Us:
Let's face it, traditional marine varnish can be nasty toxic stuff plus you need other chemicals to clean up afterwards (like Mineral Spirits, Varsol or Laquer Thinners).  But it is still possible to approach the job of varnishing in an economical and environmentally responsible and friendly manner.


It's all in the Bristle
Let's start with the brush.  Natural bristle creates a smoother finish then synthetic brushes and are easy to clean. Try to use a brush that's made of wood (handle) and natural bristle.  Badger uses brushes that are similar to Lee Valley's.   There are more expensive brushes available, but these are very economical. You can always buy a better quality brush, but if so, we highly recommend you are diligent in your cleaning process.

Natural bristle brushes are strongly recommended.

While some may like the ease of a sponge or foam brush, it's really only a one-use type of item when using for varnishing.  In fact, sometimes, especially with the cheaper ones, the sponge/foam will split and fall apart before the job is even done.  Usually, for the price of the foam brush, you are actually using more value in thinners for the cleaning (if you planning to reuse it).  Besides, that's a lot of plastic and man-made sponge being thrown into the landfill for only one job!  If you want to use a foam brush, try to find one with a wooden handle so it will eventually be able to breakdown in the landfill.

Try not to purchase plastics if possible.

Remember, with a natural, and most importantly, re-usable brush, you are able to varnish many paddles and gunwales/gunnels over the course of many different seasons.  The only real key to maintaining your brush is Poppa Badger's 4 step clean up!


Badger's 4 Step Brush Clean Up

1. Remove excess varnish from brush
2. Wash brush in old or dirty spirits/Varsol
3. Wash brush in new/clean spirits/Varsol
4. Wash brush with soap and water

Save your old jars for your
"Old Spirits" and Varnish

Old Spirits verses New Spirits:
This is about using quantities sparingly and then re-using them.  The best way to clean a brush after varnishing is to first remove any excess varnish by gently wiping the bristles on rim of your varnish jar*.  Next, use some old spirits or Varsol that has been been saved from a previous job.  Make sure you don't use too much.  You don't want the spirits to rise up over the ferrule (metal part) of the brush.  Just cover the bristles.


What is "Old or Dirty Varsol"?
This is the Varsol that was saved (in a sealed jar) from the last time you cleaned your brush after varnishing.  This Varsol is dirty looking (in that it is not clear) and may have sediment that has settled at the bottom of the jar* over time.  Pour this "old Varsol" into another new and clean open jar*, leaving the sediment at the bottom of the old one.  Use the poured off spirits/Varsol to clean your brush by dipping and swishing your brush in the old (poured off) spirits/Varsol.  This will be the first wash.  Try to remove excess with a shake or two.

Use clean spirits before
washing with soap & water

The next wash will be with new and clean spirits, right from the manufacturer's container. Again, take care not to use too much... you only need a small amount to clean the bristles of your brush now.  Again, you don't need to cover the ferrule. Pour a very small amount into another clean jar*, just enough to cover most of the bristles/brush hair.  Use the new and clean spirits/Varsol to clean your brush by dipping and swishing your brush in the jar of the new spirits/Varsol.  Remember to add this now dirty wash to your "old Varsol" jar before sealing it and putting it away for the next time you need to clean a dirty brush.  Poppa Badger's Note: You can keep jars of varying degrees of dirtiness to do your washes or clean up, eventually disposing of the dirtiest spirits in time.


After you shake the excess spirits or Varsol off the brush, you are left with the last wash.  Your last step will be to use water and a mild soap (preferably an actual brush soap) and wash the brush bristles gently, with your fingers. We have found that dishwashing soap works quite well if no brush soap is available. Rinse with more water until all soap is removed, very gently squeeze out the excess water, and then set the brush flat to dry. And, you are done!  As an added tip, Poppa Badger says if you are storing your brush for a long period of time, take a pea to penny-sized amount of raw linseed oil and work it in thru the bristles. You will be amazed at how soft and pliable your brush is the next time you need it.

More Badger's Tips & Tricks

• Don't dip your brush right into your store bought tin of varnish. That will only add dust and other particles to your varnish and contaminate it. Instead, keep your main varnish supply clean and only pour out what you think you will need (pour sparingly - you can always add more if you need it) into another clean and open jar to use for your project.
• Do use the tip of the brush (NOT your finger) to try to catch and remove a stray hair (or other particles) in the varnish as you brush it on.  It will prove much easier then using only your fingers!
• Don't put the lid on your varnish if you have too much air between the varnish and the lid of the container.  This will cause the varnish to "skin over".  Air space is your enemy. Instead, pour the varnish into smaller jars* and continue the process, always pouring your varnish into a smaller container as you use it up - and your varnish will stay much fresher - but you must always lessen the amount of air space in your jar. Works with paint too. If you don't have a proper sized jar, then pour a tiny amount of spirits on top of your varnish to create a "seal". Use only a small layer to cover and when you are ready to use the varnish, just mix in the spirits with your varnish and proceed as usual. (Note: the spirits/Varsol will act as a thinner when using this process so be careful to use only a minimal amount).
• Do give the varnish something to adhere to and lightly scuff or sand with a very fine (320 grit) sand paper between coats. Use a stearated (self-lubricated) sandpaper or use water with a wet proof paper. And do make sure to remove dust before applying the next coat of varnish (with a tack cloth/rag).
• Don't use your "old Varsol or Spirits" to clean a brush that has been used to "paint" with and then try to use it to clean your brush for varnishing.  Try to keep a separate jar of "old spirits" for "paint" brush clean ups.
• Do remember - dust will always settle on varnish as it dries.  So always make sure your work area is as clean as possible and try to stay away from the project area as the varnish dries so as to NOT stir up any extra dust.
• Don't worry about brushing with or against the grain, except for your last strokes of that coat when you should go WITH the grain.
• Do make sure to dispose of all rags, tins and jars, according to your local municipality's by-laws and regulations, keeping in mind that these materials are highly flammable and could even be susceptible to spontaneous combustion.
• Don't dirty a brush for a quick touch up for a small area.  A balled up piece of nylon pantyhose works well as a applicator. Give it a try for small scratches, etc., then dispose of accordingly.
• Do pay attention to the temperature you are working in.  If it is too warm, the varnish will dry too quickly and could bubble.  If it is too cold, damp, or rainy, the drying process could be also be affected and considerably slowed.  Check your manufacture's directions so as to be aware of the optimal temperature range when working with the product of your choice.

*Any old cleaned out pickle, salsa, or tomato sauce jar will do!


For tips on how to maintain your oiled or varnished paddles and/or gunnels/gunwales, visit our website and/or see our maintenance tips on Badger's Blog.... and always make sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions of any product you use.

How to Maintain Oiled Gunnels and Wood Paddles

Many of you will be anticipating the warm temperatures so the paddling season can begin - while some of us have already been "moved" by a Spring paddle.

For those who are still getting ready for the season - this is the perfect time for ensuring your gear and equipment is in good condition or in need of some quick maintenance/serious repair before the paddling season really gets going.  Especially when the weather is good.  These maintenance steps, as seen below, can also be done as needed through out the paddling season as well - using a mask, protective eyewear and gloves where (or if) needed.

Maintaining an Oiled Paddle:
If you are preparing to oil your canoe paddle - be sure to check out our maintenance page and past posts on this blog.   Here and here.  And, while you are perusing the notes on maintaining an oiled and/or varnished paddle on a rainy Spring day - make sure you pick a sunny weekend to actually get to work.  Working outside provides the best ventilation and allows you to dig out your canoe for some maintenance too.  We also hear vitamin D is good for you!

Maintaining Oiled Gunnels on a Canoe:
If your gunnels typically get a lot of wear and tear from paddles, transport, portages or other heavy use, then it is best to go with an oiled finish.  Keep your eye on the weather reports and when you have a good couple days of sunshine and warmth - bring out your canoe - flip it so the gunnels are up and let it air dry in the sun for one of those days.  Even a garage may be musty and having a dry surface is important for the best results.  After that - you can take care of both your paddle and gunnels together.

To re-oil the gunnels/decks of your boat - just sand, using 220 grit paper, to remove any mold, mildew stains or to smooth out any roughened areas.  You can later sand with an even finer paper to make it really smooth for finishing - but it isn't really necessary.  After the sanding stage is finished - just wipe off the dust with a clean, dry cloth - you are ready to oil!

You can use your own mixture - or - as we tell our customers - Behr's Scandinavian Tung Oil* (found at Home Depot in Canada - see above photo) or a similar product will do.  A fine marine grade/outdoor quality product is recommended as these products usually offer UV protection.  After the sanding and dusting, wet a clean rag with the oil and apply liberally to the wooden gunnels, etc. on your canoe.  But try to keep it neat and not slop it on your boat shell or the gelcoat, if you can.  (We usually put the oil in a large open container only adding more oil as we need it.  Then we just dip our oil rag/cloth into the oil as we go for ease.)  Let the oil soak in and penetrate while you work your way around the rest of the canoe - oiling as you go.  You can even leave it for 10 minutes or so to allow more penetration while you take a break or oil your paddles - but don't leave it for too long or it will be thick and tacky when you return.

When you get back to where you started and feel the oil has time to penetrate the wood - take some fine sandpaper (320 grit will do) and "wet sand" the entire area that was oiled using the oil on the sand paper only. When you are back again to the starting point - take a clean, dry cloth and wipe off the excess oil.  The gunnels will still feel oily to the touch but if you allow that to dry for a few to several hours, you will return to find a dry oil finish.  Repeat this whole process a second or third time - depending on how many coats the wood needs - or how "thirsty" it is....  

If it the first time that the gunnels have been treated - we would recommend that you repeat the process at least 3 to 5 times to ensure enough finish has been built up to protect the wood.

From Varnished to Oiled:
If you are wanting to apply an oil finish to your gunnels that are varnished then you MUST REMOVE THE VARNISH FINISH FIRST or the oil will NOT penetrate the wood.   This can be done by hand sanding using coarse grit sand paper or - even quicker - with a machine or hand-held power sander.  Be sure to wear a dust mask to ensure you don't breath in any of the varnish dust.  When the wood is bare again - begin the oiling process as described above making sure that the first time you are oiling your gunnels that you use multiple coats of oil.  Once the gunnels are oiled - maintenance will be more simple needing less oiling during the maintenance process then the first time you apply the oil to just bare wood.

Cleaning Up:
It is extremely important to note that oil and the rags used in the oiling process are highly combustible.  Make sure to read all the instructions regarding application and disposal located on your product's label before you begin.  It is significant that you dispose of garbage and rags properly as these are are prone to spontaneous combustion (for example: if left in a heap on the floor).  Soak your rags in a bucket of water and/or lay flat to dry before disposal and be sure to use all necessary safety equipment.

*UPDATE: Behr's has recently been discontinued. Try Watco Teak oil instead or our Badger Wood Oil.

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Canoe Paddle Maintenance Tips - Oil or Varnish

Every day brings us closer to snow and frozen waterways which also brings our paddling season to an official close. Although there is still open water at the moment, the days have become too cold, for most of us, to get out on the water. Putting our gear away for the season and our end-of-season equipment maintenance is usually done around this time of year for all, except the hard-core paddler. So when packing away your tents and canoes for the season - don’t overlook your paddles! Keeping that in mind, we are offering the following End-of-season and other Badger Canoe Paddle Care Tips for our customers.

Care of your Badger Canoe Paddle(s)

Hand-Rubbed Oiled Paddles**

The amount of maintenance that an oiled paddle needs depends on the amount of use it gets in a season. For instance, a paddle that is to be used daily or up to 4 days/week, we recommend oiling your paddle every few weeks or as needed. For paddles used only on the weekends or less, Badger Paddles recommends you re-oil your paddle every one to 2 months or as needed. Even if your oiled paddle is only used once in a year, we recommend you oil your paddle at the begining and end of every season at minimum, or as needed. You may use a fine marine tung oil product like Behr or boiled linseed oil. For more tips on oiling your Badger Paddle, please visit our maintenance page.

Hand-Rubbed Varnished Blades & Varnished Blades**

To truly keep your paddle in it’s best condition, a varnished paddle should be checked for any “scars” from use at the end of every season. “Scars” include nicks or heavy scratches or other abrasions in the varnish finish. “Scars” can be caused by coming into contact with rocks or other hard surfaces while in use or at play. These “scars” should be sanded out first (if possible) and the entire varnished surface be given a light sanding with a fine sand paper. This helps the new coat of marine-grade varnish that now must be applied to have better surface adhesion.

You may only want to "feather-out" the scar by sanding lightly.  Not only will this be easier but it will allow a natural patina to acquire on your paddle.  These scars may even hold memories for you.  In the case of really deep scars, you may need to fill with a coloured wood filler, sanding level before finishing with a good quality marine grade varnish.  

Before varnishing, wipe clean with a soft cloth or a tack rag to remove any surface dust. If you are only varnishing the blade of your paddle - use painters tape to give a clean edge-line to your finish. Using a brush made of natural fibre or sponge, brush on the varnish according to the manufacturers directions. Hang to dry in a dust free environment.


For a full look at varnishing a paddle, watch our video "How To Varnish A Wood Canoe Paddle (At Home)".

Please note all our varnished blades come with an oiled shaft and grip, except for WaterColours. We do offer a fully varnished paddle as a special order. For tips on how to maintain your oiled shafts and grip, please refer to the Oiled Paddles section above.

Storage of your Badger Paddle(s)

Because Badger Paddles are solid wood canoe paddles, it is best to hang them from their grip(s) or lay them down. This is especially true for long term storage, for if a solid wood paddle is left leaning for too long a period - it may warp.

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Don’t want to do the maintenance? We can do it for you as we also offer paddle refinishing. Contact us at info@badgerpaddles.com for more details.

**Caution: Always work in a well ventilated area when using any of the products needed to maintain your Badger Paddles. Also note the products used to maintain your paddles are flammable and subject to spontaneous combustion. All rags, especially those used to oil paddles, must be spread out to dry completely before disposing of for safety purposes.