Gun Socks ≠ Paddle Socks

paddle 1 |ˈpadl|nouna short pole with a broad blade at one or both ends, used without an oarlock to move a small boat or canoe through the water.

sock |säk|noun1 a garment, typically knitted from wool, cotton, polyester or nylon.

Paddle Bag or Paddle Sock?
There are many paddle bags on the market that are referred to as "paddle socks" but most are made of fleece, canvas, etc. and are really more bag then sock. They aren't technically a sock (in the knitted traditional sense of the word), and usually are paddle specific. Paddle bags are also pretty expensive starting at any where from $30 for most and even over $100 for some. They can be really heavy and bulky too.

When we first started looking for a way to transport our paddles we needed a bag that could be used time and time again for paddles of different lengths and varying blade shapes that was quick and easy to put on and take off. We started making our own from recycled hockey socks.  We would actually take two (or three - depending on the length needed) old hockey socks and hand-sew them together to make one long sock - with one end sewn closed and the other left open like a sleeve.

This worked temporarily but they were much, much, too loose (forever falling down) and we really wanted something we could easily cinch closed and that looked a bit more aesthetic then Poppa Badger's retired (mix-matched) hockey socks. So we went on the look-out for a knitter/manufacturer to give us the same style stretch as the hockey sock provided (quickly slipping on and off the paddle with little to no "grand production") but a closer knit that we could make Badger Paddle Socks from.

Machine knitted like socks are now known to be, our Badger Paddle Sock

works and feels much like a real sock does.

We found a some-what local fella who made and distributed central vacuum hose covers. Always open to other applications for his product (including Baseball Bat Covers, Golf Ball & Club bags, Gun Socs [gun sock], and more), he agreed to sell us what we needed. Thus, the Badger Paddle Sock was born. The first of it's kind, the Badger Paddle Sock will fit almost any canoe paddle up to 65" long!

Gun Socks are NOT Paddle Socks:
But please, for the health of your wooden paddle, DO NOT substitute a "Gun Sock" for a "Paddle Sock", whether it be a "Badger Paddle Sock" or not! Gun Socks are not only too short for most traditional canoe paddles, but - more importantly - most Guns Socks are actually impregnated with silicone which will not only help hold moisture in the sock - but anywhere the silicone touches bare wood or an area that the finish has worn thin, there could be a real problem when you go to maintain it. The silicone will make it difficult for your oil or varnish to adhere properly to the wood.

According to the Sporting Clays ~ The Wingshooters Magazine forum, gun owners have even been warning others about the effects of a silicone impregnated gun sock on wood:

"Be aware that if you have any scratches exposing bare wood or worn areas on the gun, that the finish is worn off. This silicone will get into the pores of the wood and if and when you would ever get the gun refinished, the finish will not stick to these areas. I had just thought you could sand it out but according to this gun refinisher, it is very hard to get any finish to stick to these affected areas. So silicone on metal only keep it off of the wood."

So while Badger Paddle Socks are made in a similar way to many gun socks (and maybe check your hose cover for your central-vac - it be could material made from the same guy who made your paddle sock too!) obviously our socks are meant for paddles and DO NOT have any silicone or rust-prohibiting chemicals impregnated into the material. So your wooden paddle and finish is definitely safe with us!

And while we aren't foolish enough to think we have the "original" paddle sock (as people have been unofficially referring to paddle bags as "socks" for over a decade), we are pretty sure that we have the first (really sock-like) one-size-fits-most paddle bag priced less then the popular bags or "socks" of the past. You can buy our Paddle Socks individually but the best deal you can get on a Badger Paddle Sock is when you buy a Badger Paddle... 'cause each paddle comes with a Badger Paddle Sock for free!

For more information about our Paddle Socks, visit www.paddlesock.com

Badger Paddles' Tip of the Week - Paddlers & Pantyhose

Badger Paddles' Tip of the Week includes information on paddling, camping, portaging, boat transport, and maintenance tips, as well as any other information that we may find to be useful around our sett.


Pantyhose is a Paddler's Friend.
We all know we are supposed to re-use and recycle items to help lesson our impact on the environment, right?!! But what does pantyhose have to do with paddlers? While there's actually a lot you can do with an old pair of nylon tights, for paddlers and campers, there are definitely at least two...

1) At the campground: Soap Stockings
Your bar of soap* (or you can take all the old soap slivers and left overs - you know, like when the soap gets too small to hold in the shower) and an old pair of pantyhose can make for a great soap dispenser in the bush. Cut off the leg of an old pair of clean nylon tights around knee height (or just use a pair of knee-highs). Add your soap (or soap pieces) into the sock you just created. Tie off the end near the soap. Hang the soap stocking near your wash/kitchen station while camping for hand-washing, etc., Now the soap won't slip out of your soapy hands or get dirty when you drop it. It also helps to keep the soap drier (not mushy) after use so it is easier to pack away at night (if little critters or bears are a consideration).


2) In the shop: Nylon Varnish Applicator
One reason that people tend to lean towards a varnished paddle is the lack of maintenance over an oiled paddle. But that doesn't mean that varnished paddles don't need a coat of protection every once in a while (depending on use). If you have a hard time with dripping varnish or only need to apply a light coat of protection, old nylons can be of great use. Just cut off the toe and upper portions of stockings, keeping the soft nylon and leaving the rest. Now simply apply the varnish to your paddle (after a light sanding to scuff up the surface a bit) using the nylons like a pad. Rub the varnish gently, making sure it is evenly dispersed, only using enough to cover the area with a light coat. Then leave to dry. You don't have to worry about cleaning your brush with Varsol or other harsh chemicals/spirits as discarding the old panty hose is your only clean up. The whole process takes only minutes but will lengthen the life of your paddle and it's finish. Note: you will want to use a pair of paint gloves to protect your paws!


One last tip: natural pantyhose works the best in most cases where strongly dyed tights or hose can possibly lose some of it colour while being re-used. (eg. You may notice the colour of your pantyhose showing up slightly in your varnish).

Do you have any tips to share? Send us your tips and paddling advice - and if your tip is featured here - we will send you a free Badger Paddles sticker!!! All you have to do is email us your suggestions.


*Biodegradable or earth friendly, please.

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How to Maintain Oiled Gunnels and Wood Paddles

Many of you will be anticipating the warm temperatures so the paddling season can begin - while some of us have already been "moved" by a Spring paddle.

For those who are still getting ready for the season - this is the perfect time for ensuring your gear and equipment is in good condition or in need of some quick maintenance/serious repair before the paddling season really gets going.  Especially when the weather is good.  These maintenance steps, as seen below, can also be done as needed through out the paddling season as well - using a mask, protective eyewear and gloves where (or if) needed.

Maintaining an Oiled Paddle:
If you are preparing to oil your canoe paddle - be sure to check out our maintenance page and past posts on this blog.   Here and here.  And, while you are perusing the notes on maintaining an oiled and/or varnished paddle on a rainy Spring day - make sure you pick a sunny weekend to actually get to work.  Working outside provides the best ventilation and allows you to dig out your canoe for some maintenance too.  We also hear vitamin D is good for you!

Maintaining Oiled Gunnels on a Canoe:
If your gunnels typically get a lot of wear and tear from paddles, transport, portages or other heavy use, then it is best to go with an oiled finish.  Keep your eye on the weather reports and when you have a good couple days of sunshine and warmth - bring out your canoe - flip it so the gunnels are up and let it air dry in the sun for one of those days.  Even a garage may be musty and having a dry surface is important for the best results.  After that - you can take care of both your paddle and gunnels together.

To re-oil the gunnels/decks of your boat - just sand, using 220 grit paper, to remove any mold, mildew stains or to smooth out any roughened areas.  You can later sand with an even finer paper to make it really smooth for finishing - but it isn't really necessary.  After the sanding stage is finished - just wipe off the dust with a clean, dry cloth - you are ready to oil!

You can use your own mixture - or - as we tell our customers - Behr's Scandinavian Tung Oil* (found at Home Depot in Canada - see above photo) or a similar product will do.  A fine marine grade/outdoor quality product is recommended as these products usually offer UV protection.  After the sanding and dusting, wet a clean rag with the oil and apply liberally to the wooden gunnels, etc. on your canoe.  But try to keep it neat and not slop it on your boat shell or the gelcoat, if you can.  (We usually put the oil in a large open container only adding more oil as we need it.  Then we just dip our oil rag/cloth into the oil as we go for ease.)  Let the oil soak in and penetrate while you work your way around the rest of the canoe - oiling as you go.  You can even leave it for 10 minutes or so to allow more penetration while you take a break or oil your paddles - but don't leave it for too long or it will be thick and tacky when you return.

When you get back to where you started and feel the oil has time to penetrate the wood - take some fine sandpaper (320 grit will do) and "wet sand" the entire area that was oiled using the oil on the sand paper only. When you are back again to the starting point - take a clean, dry cloth and wipe off the excess oil.  The gunnels will still feel oily to the touch but if you allow that to dry for a few to several hours, you will return to find a dry oil finish.  Repeat this whole process a second or third time - depending on how many coats the wood needs - or how "thirsty" it is....  

If it the first time that the gunnels have been treated - we would recommend that you repeat the process at least 3 to 5 times to ensure enough finish has been built up to protect the wood.

From Varnished to Oiled:
If you are wanting to apply an oil finish to your gunnels that are varnished then you MUST REMOVE THE VARNISH FINISH FIRST or the oil will NOT penetrate the wood.   This can be done by hand sanding using coarse grit sand paper or - even quicker - with a machine or hand-held power sander.  Be sure to wear a dust mask to ensure you don't breath in any of the varnish dust.  When the wood is bare again - begin the oiling process as described above making sure that the first time you are oiling your gunnels that you use multiple coats of oil.  Once the gunnels are oiled - maintenance will be more simple needing less oiling during the maintenance process then the first time you apply the oil to just bare wood.

Cleaning Up:
It is extremely important to note that oil and the rags used in the oiling process are highly combustible.  Make sure to read all the instructions regarding application and disposal located on your product's label before you begin.  It is significant that you dispose of garbage and rags properly as these are are prone to spontaneous combustion (for example: if left in a heap on the floor).  Soak your rags in a bucket of water and/or lay flat to dry before disposal and be sure to use all necessary safety equipment.

*UPDATE: Behr's has recently been discontinued. Try Watco Teak oil instead or our Badger Wood Oil.

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Canoe Paddle Maintenance Tips - Oil or Varnish

Every day brings us closer to snow and frozen waterways which also brings our paddling season to an official close. Although there is still open water at the moment, the days have become too cold, for most of us, to get out on the water. Putting our gear away for the season and our end-of-season equipment maintenance is usually done around this time of year for all, except the hard-core paddler. So when packing away your tents and canoes for the season - don’t overlook your paddles! Keeping that in mind, we are offering the following End-of-season and other Badger Canoe Paddle Care Tips for our customers.

Care of your Badger Canoe Paddle(s)

Hand-Rubbed Oiled Paddles**

The amount of maintenance that an oiled paddle needs depends on the amount of use it gets in a season. For instance, a paddle that is to be used daily or up to 4 days/week, we recommend oiling your paddle every few weeks or as needed. For paddles used only on the weekends or less, Badger Paddles recommends you re-oil your paddle every one to 2 months or as needed. Even if your oiled paddle is only used once in a year, we recommend you oil your paddle at the begining and end of every season at minimum, or as needed. You may use a fine marine tung oil product like Behr or boiled linseed oil. For more tips on oiling your Badger Paddle, please visit our maintenance page.

Hand-Rubbed Varnished Blades & Varnished Blades**

To truly keep your paddle in it’s best condition, a varnished paddle should be checked for any “scars” from use at the end of every season. “Scars” include nicks or heavy scratches or other abrasions in the varnish finish. “Scars” can be caused by coming into contact with rocks or other hard surfaces while in use or at play. These “scars” should be sanded out first (if possible) and the entire varnished surface be given a light sanding with a fine sand paper. This helps the new coat of marine-grade varnish that now must be applied to have better surface adhesion.

You may only want to "feather-out" the scar by sanding lightly.  Not only will this be easier but it will allow a natural patina to acquire on your paddle.  These scars may even hold memories for you.  In the case of really deep scars, you may need to fill with a coloured wood filler, sanding level before finishing with a good quality marine grade varnish.  

Before varnishing, wipe clean with a soft cloth or a tack rag to remove any surface dust. If you are only varnishing the blade of your paddle - use painters tape to give a clean edge-line to your finish. Using a brush made of natural fibre or sponge, brush on the varnish according to the manufacturers directions. Hang to dry in a dust free environment.


For a full look at varnishing a paddle, watch our video "How To Varnish A Wood Canoe Paddle (At Home)".

Please note all our varnished blades come with an oiled shaft and grip, except for WaterColours. We do offer a fully varnished paddle as a special order. For tips on how to maintain your oiled shafts and grip, please refer to the Oiled Paddles section above.

Storage of your Badger Paddle(s)

Because Badger Paddles are solid wood canoe paddles, it is best to hang them from their grip(s) or lay them down. This is especially true for long term storage, for if a solid wood paddle is left leaning for too long a period - it may warp.

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Don’t want to do the maintenance? We can do it for you as we also offer paddle refinishing. Contact us at info@badgerpaddles.com for more details.

**Caution: Always work in a well ventilated area when using any of the products needed to maintain your Badger Paddles. Also note the products used to maintain your paddles are flammable and subject to spontaneous combustion. All rags, especially those used to oil paddles, must be spread out to dry completely before disposing of for safety purposes.